How nice it was to visit grandma Dagmar in her cozy home in the outskirts of the city. She always made Gustav his favourite dish: tarteletter. Mmm, crisp pastry shells filled with a white asparagus-and-faux-chicken stew. A warming dish typical of Denmark some thirty plus years ago. Of course it was her recipe he used in his own restaurant (TheAlley Cat), although he suspected she’d kept some secret ingredient from him… Catering primarily to the hipsters of Copenhagen, he had had no problem reviving this dish. Some found it uncomfortably old-fashioned and out-dated, but mostly people seemed to relish things that oozed of grannies. Tarteletter definitely had a weird form of coolness to them, and were experiencing a nationwide resurrection. Tarteletter were hip.
As Gustav left his grandmother’s house that particular day, he couldn’t help but feeling inspired. Grandma (orbedstemor as he actually called her) was such a cat-lady. She’d recently taken in a couple of abandoned kittens found in a area of vacation homes, and was now bottle-feeding them. Gently rubbing their stomachs afterwards for digestion, and cleaning their you-know-whats. Bundled up on Grandma’s stomach they looked so content. Aww.
Apparently it was not at all uncommon for people to abandon their pet cat in a distant area whenever they grow tired of it’s company, had a baby, moved homes or something. Often the cat would not in any way be capable of fending for itself. If surviving long enough, many such cats would breed year round. Thus bringing kittens to the world that too often would die horribly of cold, starvation or illness before having had a real shot at life. People occupying the vacation homes often felt sorry for the hungry and perhaps ill cats. They’d feed them. Pet them. The cats would then become dependent of the humans, but at some point said humans would go home – forgetting everything about the cats.
It made Gustav furious that someone could be as thoughtless and heartless as to abandon an animal like that. A healthy adult cat living the happy free cat-life was one thing. Abandoned cats that had once been tamed by humans,vacation cats, homeless cats with wounds or illnesses were a completely different matter. They need a vet’s attention and perhaps neutralization. People needed education. The country needed laws against abandoning one’s pets. Laws that protected animals.
To the doubters: According to an omnivore fan of this dish, it’s completely satisfying and as close to the meaty version as one could possibly wish – no real difference.
Ingredients
Pastry Shells
10-12; but it really depends on the size.
- 300 g flour
- 250 g cold nondairy butter
- 1/2 tsp salt
- 2 tbsp cold water
Stew
- 700 ml water
- 2 cans asparagus
- 200 ml nondairy cream
- 2 tsp vegetable stock
- pepper to taste (usually quite a lot)
- 100 g granulated dry soy protein (small nuggets) – OR another source of protein which somewhat resembles chicken
- 2 tbsp nutritional yeast
- 5-6 tbsp corn starch dissolved in 100 ml water OR similar
- 1 1/2 tbsp lemon juice
Instructions
Pastry Shells
- Turn on the oven at 275° C / 527° F – adjust for forced fan.
- Mix the dry ingredients.
- Add the rest and knead.
- Let cool completely in the fridge; e.g. over night.
- Roll out using a rolling pin (about 2-3 mm thick), and make shells by baking inside/outside a smallish greased form suitable for putting in the oven. If you don’t have actual forms for this kind of pastry, use your imagination to create something to shape the dough around. E.g. baking paper, a stone, a cup or something else that you are sure will not break in the oven.
- Bake until golden; about 6-12 min depending on the size of the shells.
- Cool entirely before storing in an airtight container; e.g. a tin can lined with baking paper. Gently heat before serving. Be careful when handling your home made pastry shells, they are very fragile.
- Shelf life: Up to one month.
Stew
- Mix everything in a pot and boil up.
- May very well be reheated.
Serve
- Pour the hot stew in the shells. Eat.
Suggestions
- Alternatively, you might find vegan ready-to-bake pastry/puff-pastry in stores that’ll do just fine.
- As for the pre-made pastry shells traditionally used for tarteletter, I have yet to come across a store bought variety that’s actually vegan (but please let know).
- Try adding hearts of palms etc. instead of or together with the soy protein.
NB!: Be sure to press the links scattered around the text. ![]()
The recipe for tarteletter is a veganization of Kirsten Hüttemeier’s New Big Cookbook (1963) p. 16. The Stew is my own take of the dish traditionally containing chicken and chicken stock.
Feel free to search my blog for “Hüttemeier” for more vintage cooking the vegan way.
———-RECIPE IN DANISH———-
Tarteletter
Til tvivlerne: Ifølge en kødspisende tartelet-fan er disse nærmest identiske med den kødholdige original!
Ingredienser
Tarteletter
10-12; men det kommer helt an på størrelsen.
- 300 g mel
- 250 g koldt vegetabilsk smør
- 1/2 tsk salt
- 2 spsk koldt vand
Stuvning
- 700 ml vand
- 2 ds. aspargs
- 200 ml vegetabilsk fløde
- 2 tsk grønsagsboullion
- peber efter behag (oftest en del)
- 100 g tør soja granulat (små stykker; købes i helsekost butikker) – ELLER anden proteinkilde der minder om kylling
- 2 spsk gærflager (“nutritional yeast”)
- 5-6 spsk majsstivelse ELLER lignende opløst i 100 ml vand
- 1 1/2 spsk citronsaft
Instruktioner
Tarteletter
- Tænd ovnen på 275° C med blæs.
- Mix det tørre.
- Tilsæt resten og ælt sammen.
- Lad køle helt i køleskabet; f.eks. natten over.
- Rul ud; ca. 2-3 mm og form skallerne. Læg f.eks. dejen udenom smurte linseforme eller lignende.
- Bag indtil gyldne; nok ca 6-12 min alt after størrelsen.
- Afkøl helt før opbevaring i lufttæt beholder; f.eks. eks. dåse beklædt med bagepapir. Opvarm evt. forsigtigt de skrøbelige skaller inden servering.
- Holdbarhed: op til en måned.
Stuvning
- Det hele blandes i en gryde og koges op.
- Kan sagtens genopvarmes.
Servering
- Hæld varm stuvning i skallerne og server.
Forslag
- Vegansk færdiglavet/færdigkøbt butterdej etc. kan sagtens bruges.
- Personligt har jeg endnu ikke fundet færdiglavede veganske tarteletter i butikkerne endnu, men sig endelig til.
- Prøv også palmehjerter og andet istedet for eller sammen med soja granulat.
NB!: Husk at klikke på diverse links i teksten. ![]()
Opskriften på tarteletter er en veganisering af Hüttemeiers Nye Storkogebog (1963) s. 16. Stuvningen er min egen veganske version af den traditionelt kyllingeholdige ret.
Søg evt. på “Hüttemeier” for mere nostalgisk vintage mad på vegansk.





















































